Wednesday, 18 September 2013

Day 9 - From Pont St Martin to Ivrea 21.1 km

Wednesday 18th September

"Arriving in Piemont, the mountains are softened, slopes and height differences are easier to follow. The walking tour alternates between characteristic villages and enchanting natural tracks."
 Along old cobbled lanes and roads, up and down the hillsides, under trellised vines... 

This must be one of the most beautiful, stunning places to walk in the world (away from the coast...) 

The way was well signposted again

The walk this morning was through the trellised vines along the hillsides, every possible piece of land being utilised!
The steepness of the slopes has generated some interesting harvesting and transport innovations... flying foxes, above  and more modern monorails - below
Have to share one more photo of the vineyards... There are also marked winery and vineyard walks in this area. Might need to come back and explore these some other time! Wine tasting and 20 km + walks don't mix we'll... I think - not sure it would be a good idea to try...?
walking through the villages, frescos, lovely doorways, gorgeous stonework! VF arrows making the way easy to follow.

Some of the lanes are still called by names that reflect the ancient pilgrimages - "Via Roma" appears in many villages


Every Cafe and Bar must close at least one day each week, wouldn't you know it! the village bar we were planning on stopping at was chiuso on Martidei closed Wednesday.... sigh, hours without my cafe doppio!
Continued on, the landscape is leveling out as the valley floor widens -
 remnants of ancient roads, forts, castles and ruins abound- right alongside the Via Francigena, we actually walk through a home in ruins today!
Restored Castle

Stopped off for early lunch at The "Vertical Rock" rock climbing park at Montestrutto. And the first food and coffee for the day, the bar in previous village closed...
At the end of the day we walk through walled entrance 


and into the old city centre of Ivrea. 

Patrick had a rest at a bar while I explored a little, 

Found a lovely small church in the Piazza near the cathedral (cathedral is being renovated at the moment, so I didn't go inside.) 


The stunning interior a contrast to the simple exterior.

All the ceilings also painted.

recommendation from Philippe,
Accommodation 
12 Euro per bed or 15 incl breakfast - The  canoa club hostel on via Dora baltea,  just across the river.  Tel 03280999579 
Angela from Pont St Martin phoned to book for us, we arrived about 4:30pm
Great recommendation - clean, right by the river and not far from the historical centre! Also has a kitchen, so we cooked our own dinner. View from our window at the Canoa Club hostel. Ivrea hosts international canoeing and kayaking championships. 


http://www.francigenasigerico.it/ - office in Ivrea, we'll go past the office on our way out of Ivrea tomorrow.

other accommodation options
Hostel Salesian Eporediese
Address: Via San Giovanni Bosco 58 - Ivrea
Phone: 0125 627268
Email: ostello.ivrea@salesianipiemonte.it
Web: http://www.salesiani-icp.net/ivrea/ostello/
Type: Hostel religious
Open: All year round, except on 25/12
Price: € 35 single, 65 double, 90 triple, quadruple 120: bed and breakfast
Number of seats: 151

B & B Green Music - need to pre- book
Address: Via Cavour, 10 - Borgofranco of Ivrea
Phone: 349 0835837
Email: fampedroli@davide.it
Typology: B & B
Open: All year.
Price: 20 € bed and breakfast
Number of seats: 2
 

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