Thursday 19 September 2013

Day 10 - Ivrea to Cavaglia 23.2 km

Thursday 19th September

Walking out of Ivrea, we walked past the "Office of the Friends of the Via Francigena" We stopped for a brief chat. They were very happy to see us!

today is an easy route at the bottom of Ivrea Greenhouse, the biggest moraine in Europe, an interesting geological formation. ( I need to go online and find out what a moraine is!) ... here's what I found out!  When the glacier Baltea began it’s retreat at the end of the great ice age, it left behind the long 25 km moraine near Ivrea, the “Serra d’Ivrea”,  and formed a large scenic basin with many lakes such as the 5 lake area in Ivrea, and the Candia and Viverone lakes.
 Walked past some lakes. You can see the Moraine as the straight ridge line behind the lake.

Walked through shady forests this morning

stopped off at the village of Bollengo, for a Café break, walked past a Paneteria where we could see the chefs baking, made the mistake of sending Patrick in to buy some snacks... Think he got a little carried away!

The Pasteria chefs above, and what Patrick emerged with...

 Walked through lovely vineyards, and the "Gesuin", a delightful church ruin in the middle of the countryside where only walls and a partial fresco remain.

I've been smelling a lot of dog poo over the last few days, I've even stopped and washed my boot soles in water thinking I've trodden in some- But I've figured out its a flowering vine that smells disgustingly like dog poo, I don't know what it's called - I call it "stinky doggy doo vine" ... 

Noticed the style of buildings have completely changed today, they are more long narrow, 2 or 3 stories high with often an open attic at the top. Mostly rendered and brick, rather than so much rock and stone work. 

More farming of crops, beans, looks like millet, corn etc... as well as grape vines and veges.
Stopped at Palazzo Canavese for lunch - total of 10 euro for pasta each, mineral water and bread

Walked through lots of vineyards this afternoon, can smell the grapes ripening... 

had a chat with a couple of farmers checking their grapes, (in my stunning Italiano!) said they're not ready for harvest yet. they gave us a couple of bunches of the most delicious sweet white table grapes!

Another door shot... and this building is for sale!

I think these three old friends maintain this lovely little chapel

weathered shutters 
Entrance to another village - I think it's Ropollo...

Arrived in Cavaglia at about 4:15 pm... 
Young Frederico was cycling through town and showed us the way to the Commune! - city hall
where we need to sign in and collect the key to the hostel.

Lovely helpful people! the hostel is a simple, clean room with 6 beds and a bathroom. I took a photo which they asked me to email 

I was soooo happy to arrive! I'd mistimed a cafe/ bar stop, after lunch, so was bursting to go to the loo, had been wondering if travel and medical  insurance would cover a burst bladder! Practically no public toilets in the villages, so my toilet breaks need to be planned to coincide with a cafe doppio at a bar in villages, this afternoon my timing and planning wasn't the best, but I survived! Just! 

Cavaglia is an interesting town, must have been quite wealthy some time ago, the church is huge and very ornate.

 The architecture in the old centre is interesting, lots of courtyard buildings. 
and there is a Castello - closed though. Would love to explore it!

continue on 3 km from Viverone further to Cavaglia : club canoa phoned ahead and booked for us the Ostello Comunale Via Generale Salino - donation.
 before 5 pm get key from City Hall, or from old peoples home Salotto D'Argento after 5 pm

other accommodation information from Philippe
Roppolo :  La Lune bed and breakfast for 40 Euro incl a generous breakfast.  tel.03462109706.  A pleasant large double room - 

San Germano Vercellese :  my first
negative  observation :  AVOID the Albergo delle minere run by a not very courteous Chinese family.  I walked away and met some pilgrims who had been warned about that particular hostel and had been given an alternative to this otherwise only show in town.    if you have to stay in this not so uplifting town, the restaurant " locanda del leon d ' oro " on the piazza Garibaldi does rooms for 30 Euro for couples, incl breakfast.
Vercelli :  the convento de billiemme - basic but with a great giving attitude towards the less well-off in society 
10 Euro per person incl breakfast ( and possibly lunch if you arrive before lunch) 

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